1. Determine the clients natural hair color level and gray percentage using the High Definition Level Finder.
2. Let the client choose a shade from the High Definition Hair Color Swatch Book or Formulation Chart.
3. If client has less than 50% gray, use formula in white box. If over 50% gray, use formulation in gray box.
4. Reference developer selection chart below for proper developer and time to leave in.
(for best gray coverage, use Pure Oxi 20 Volume Developer at a 1:1 mixing ratio)
Level of Lift |
Developer to Use |
Time |
Level on level or darker |
Demi-Permanent Developer |
20-30 minutes |
Level on level or darker |
10 or 10C Developer |
20 minutes |
1-2 levels of lift |
20 or 20C Developer |
30 minutes |
3 Levels of lift |
30C Developer |
40 minutes |
4 levels of lift |
40C Developer |
45-50 minutes |
Ultra-Light Blondes |
40C Developer |
30-45 minutes |
5. Apply using brush or bottle application.
6. Process at room temperature for the proper amount of time based on the developer selected.
7. Rinse hair and shampoo.
8. Spray with Scruples' No H2O2 and let sit 3-5 minutes.
9. Rinse and condition hair.
Notes:
For Ultra-Light blondes.
1. Mix 1 part High Definition Lift with 2 parts 40C volume developer.
2. Process 30-45 minutes
3. Use Lift only on hair color lever 6 and lighter.
For more intense color, mix in 0.25 to 0.5 Fl. Oz. red or violet High Definition Color Intensifier.
For resistant gray coverage, increase processing time to 45 minutes.
For extremely resistant gray coverage, mix 2 parts High Definition Color Gel Gray Coverage formula with 1 Fl. Oz. of Pure Oxi 40 Volume Clear Developer. This creates a working 20 volume mixture with double pigment.